The Complete Guide To Using Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is a fantastic active ingredient that can help improve various skin concerns, including acne, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin texture, photodamage, and wrinkles.

Additionally, its gentle action makes it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and rosacea-prone skin.

However, although mandelic acid is somewhat of a superstar ingredient, this doesn’t mean you can’t go wrong with it.

In fact, like any other skincare product, it’s essential to use mandelic acid correctly and incorporate it into a well-rounded skincare routine for optimal results.

Therefore, if you’re interested in adding this active to your skincare regimen, here is a complete guide to using mandelic acid for all the benefits and none of the side effects. 

What is Mandelic Acid?

Mandelic acid is a water-soluble component and alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) frequently used in skincare products.

Derived from bitter almonds, it’s known for its slightly larger molecular weight than other AHAs.

This larger weight results in slower, more even penetration into the skin, which reduces the risk of irritation, making it a gentle yet effective ingredient.

Mandelic acid is used in skincare primarily for its exfoliating, anti-inflammatory, and brightening properties. 

How Does Mandelic Acid Work?

Mandelic acid is a potent yet gentle exfoliator that accelerates cell turnover by dissolving the glue-like bonds that hold skin cells together.

This process helps eliminate dead skin cells and promote the growth of new ones, resulting in a brighter and smoother skin complexion.

With its larger molecular structure, mandelic acid penetrates the skin more slowly, which makes it suitable for sensitive skin as it is less likely to cause inflammation.

Mandelic acid also has antibacterial properties, which make it beneficial for treating acne.

It aids in reducing inflammation caused by acne and helps prevent its future occurrences by clearing out the pores.

In fact, some studies show that different percentages of mandelic acid can have the upper hand in successfully treating inflammatory acne over salicylic acid, which is one of the most notable anti-acne ingredients on the skincare market.

Moreover, mandelic acid can fade hyperpigmentation by accelerating cell turnover and shedding pigmented and uneven skin cells away.

Finally, mandelic acid is also fantastic for smoothing uneven skin texture by removing dead skin cells, leaving the skin soft and refined.

The renewal process it promotes can also help soften fine lines and wrinkles, making the skin appear younger and more radiant. 

The Benefits of Mandelic Acid

Here are several notable mandelic acid benefits:

Exfoliation: Mandelic acid aids in removing dead skin cells, promoting a brighter, smoother complexion through accelerated cell turnover.

Soothing: Mandelic acid has anti-inflammatory properties that soothe irritated skin and reduce inflammation associated with acne.

Reduced Acne: Thanks to its antibacterial properties, mandelic acid is effective in treating acne, as it helps clear out blocked pores and reduces the occurrence of future breakouts.

Faded Hyperpigmentation: Mandelic acid aids in fading hyperpigmentation by shedding pigmented and uneven skin cells, enhancing skin tone consistency.

Refined Skin Texture: By promoting the removal of dead skin cells, mandelic acid helps smooth out uneven skin texture, leaving the skin feeling soft and refined.

Reduced Signs of Aging: The cell renewal process promoted by mandelic acid can help soften fine lines and wrinkles, contributing to a youthful, radiant look.

The Side Effects of Mandelic Acid

Here are a few side effects that may occur when using mandelic acid:

• Irritation: Mandelic acid, although a gentler AHA, can still potentially cause skin irritation, leading to redness, itchiness, and a feeling of tightness or dryness.
• Dryness: Overusing mandelic acid can lead to dryness as it can strip the skin of its natural oils during exfoliation.
• Photosensitivity: As with other AHAs, mandelic acid may increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, making it more susceptible to sunburn.
• Flaking: Some users may notice peeling or flaking of the skin, as mandelic acid accelerates the process of skin cell turnover.
• Purging: Mandelic acid can trigger a purge, a phase where breakouts get worse before they get better due to the accelerated turnover of skin cells.
• Allergic Reaction: Although rare, there’s always a risk of an allergic reaction when introducing a new product, which may cause symptoms like redness, swelling, hives, or difficulty breathing. Always do a patch test before the full application.

Mandelic Acid Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

Mandelic acid is a fantastic active ingredient, particularly if you are trying to address skin concerns such as acne, redness, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin texture, and wrinkles.

However, using mandelic acid correctly is important, as this is how you will achieve the skin benefits it offers without experiencing adverse effects.

Therefore, here’s a step-by-step guide to follow if you are a beginner incorporating mandelic acid into your skincare routine:

Step 1: Understand Your Skin and Its Needs

Mandelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but it has a larger molecular size, which makes it gentler and less irritating, making it an excellent choice for sensitive skin types.

However, it’s crucial to understand your skin type and needs before introducing a new acid into your skincare routine.

For example, if your skin is oily and you are currently dealing with acne, you will likely see good results from using mandelic acid.

However, if you are experiencing severe inflammation or a compromised skin barrier from previously using other acids or retinoids, incorporating mandelic acid into your skincare routine can only exacerbate these issues.

On the other hand, if your skin is dry or sensitive, you might benefit more from hydrating and moisturizing acids, such as lactic acid.

Therefore, it’s essential to assess your skin before deciding whether mandelic acid is the right choice to ensure you are giving your skin what it needs.

Step 2: Choose The Right Concentration

Mandelic acid is typically available in over-the-counter products in concentrations ranging from 1% to 10%.

Beginners should start with a lower concentration, giving the skin time to adjust and gradually work up.

Step 3: Patch Test

Carry out a patch test by applying a little product on a discreet area, like behind your ear.

If you experience any moderate to severe redness, itching, or burning sensations during the time it’s on your skin, rinse it off immediately, and do not use the product on your face.

Step 4: Correct Mandelic Acid Application and Use

Mandelic acid is best applied in your nighttime skincare routine.

To apply mandelic acid correctly, follow these steps:

1. Cleanse with a gentle cleanser.
2. Apply a thin layer of your mandelic acid toner or serum, avoiding the eye and lip area.
3. Optionally, follow up with a hydrating serum to boost moisture levels.
4. Finish your routine with a nourishing moisturizer to help lock in the active ingredient and protect your skin barrier.

Step 5: Post-Application Care

If you experience mild redness or dryness, apply a gentle moisturizer and avoid mandelic acid for a few days.

Apply sunscreen the following day, as AHAs like mandelic acid can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun.

Step 6: Monitor Your Skin’s Reaction

Observe your skin for signs of irritation like redness, burning, dryness, peeling, and flaking.

If these occur, reduce the frequency of mandelic acid use.

Over time, you can gradually increase the frequency of use and the concentration of mandelic acid in line with your skin’s tolerance, but no more than three times a week, as excessive use can lead to over-exfoliation.

Step 7: Integrate into Routine

Once your skin has adapted, incorporate mandelic acid into your regular skincare routine, ensuring to balance it with other skincare products.

Avoid combining mandelic acid with other exfoliating actives to prevent over-exfoliation and irritation. 

Mandelic Acid Dos and Don’ts

Here are some final dos and don’ts to keep in mind when using mandelic acid:

DOs

• Start Slowly: Always start with a low concentration and infrequent application. Your skin needs time to adjust to mandelic acid.
• Apply at Night: As with all AHAs, it’s best to use mandelic acid at night as it can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun.
• Moisturize: Mandelic acid can be drying, so always follow up with a good moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated.
• Use Sunscreen: AHAs, including mandelic acid, can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. Always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher during the daytime.
• Patch Test: Before fully incorporating mandelic acid into your skincare routine, do a patch test to check for any adverse reactions.

DON’Ts

• Overuse: Using mandelic acid too frequently or in too high a concentration can lead to over-exfoliation, which can damage your skin barrier.
• Mix With Other Exfoliants: Avoid using mandelic acid in conjunction with other exfoliating acids or retinoids. This can lead to over-exfoliation, irritation, and barrier damage.
• Ignore Irritation Signs: If your skin shows signs of redness, burning, peeling, or flaking, stop using the product.
• Use On Broken or Irritated Skin: If your skin is compromised, avoid using mandelic acid until it has healed.
• Neglect Other Skin Care Essentials: While mandelic acid can be a powerful tool in your skincare arsenal, it is not a cure-all. Continue using other skincare products such as cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens to maintain overall skin health. 

Can You Combine Mandelic Acid With Other Actives?

You can combine mandelic acid with the following active ingredients:

• Niacinamide: Combining niacinamide and mandelic acid can fade hyperpigmentation, even out uneven skin tone, and refine texture.
• Hyaluronic acid: Combining hyaluronic acid and mandelic acid can help increase hydration, soften the skin, and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Azelaic acid: Combining azelaic acid and mandelic acid can help improve the appearance of acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation.
• Vitamin C: Combining vitamin C and mandelic acid can help brighten skin, reduce hyperpigmentation, and protect against environmental damage.
• Urea: Combining urea and mandelic acid can help increase hydration levels and improve the skin’s overall texture.

On the other hand, avoid combining mandelic acid with the following active ingredients:

• Exfoliating acids: Combining multiple exfoliating acids like salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or lactic acid with mandelic acid can lead to over-exfoliation and irritation.
• Benzoyl peroxide: Combining benzoyl peroxide with mandelic acid can increase skin sensitivity and irritate the skin.
• Retinoids: Combining retinoids and mandelic acid can lead to barrier damage, irritation, and dryness.
• Hydroquinone: Combining hydroquinone with mandelic acid can lead to skin irritation and discoloration.

Best Mandelic Acid Products for Beginners

Here are my recommendations for the best mandelic acid products for beginners:

The Ordinary – Mandelic Acid 10% + HA

Best for normal to dry skin.

The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA is a nourishing serum with a lightweight consistency and a potent concentration of mandelic acid to refine skin texture, fade hyperpigmentation, and plump visible lines and wrinkles.

Besides the main active ingredient, the serum also contains 2% hyaluronic acid to keep the skin supple and glowing while erasing multiple skin concerns at once.

Allies Of Skin – Mandelic Pigmentation Correcting Serum

Best for hyperpigmentation.

The Mandelic Pigmentation Correcting Serum by Allies of Skin is another fantastic lightweight serum containing a blend of AHAs along with hydrating components and antioxidants to soothe irritation, reverse free radical damage, and fade stubborn hyperpigmentation.

Vivant Skin Care – Skin Nourishing Toner

Best for dry, sensitive, and reactive skin.

If you are currently experiencing severe skin dryness, dehydration, sensitivity, and reactions but also want to target skin concerns such as breakouts, post-acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, and texture, a mild, gentle toner such as the Skin Nourishing Toner by Vivant is a fantastic option.

The toner has a heavier consistency that’s excellent for dry skin and contains a plethora of soothing, hydrating, and barrier-repairing ingredients such as rosehip oil, green tea extract, honey, and inflammation-reducing zinc.

Vivant Skin Care – Daily Repair Pads

Best for daily use.

The Daily Repair Pads by Vivant are a fantastic daily refreshment as they only contain 1% mandelic acid, which won’t irritate your skin but will help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and fine lines while refining uneven skin texture.

Fantastic for all skin types, these pads can be used as part of your evening routine and, due to their low strength, can also be mixed with other actives, depending on your skin’s tolerance.

Vivant Skin Care – 8% Mandelic Acid Serum

Best for acne-prone skin.

Vivant’s 8% Mandelic Acid Serum is a slightly stronger concoction than the products mentioned above and features a blend of mandelic and lactic acid to lift superficial and deeper impurities and reduce the appearance of acne.

Additionally, urea and niacinamide work together to hydrate the skin and fade post-inflammatory redness and hyperpigmentation, while several other ingredients, such as sodium PCA and inositol, repair cellular function and reverse free radical damage in the skin.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Often Should You Use Mandelic Acid?

Mandelic acid should ideally be used 2-3 times per week, but the frequency can be adjusted based on individual skin tolerance and needs.

Can You Use Mandelic Acid Daily?

While some people may tolerate daily use of mandelic acid, it’s generally recommended not to use mandelic acid more than 2-3 times per week and only increase frequency as your skin grows accustomed to the product.

Can You Use Mandelic Acid in The Morning?

Some mandelic acid products can be used in the morning, but it is essential to follow up with sunscreen due to increased sun sensitivity.

Can You Leave Mandelic Acid on Overnight?

Mandelic acid works best when left on the skin overnight. However, if your skin is sensitive and can’t tolerate overnight use, you can leave it on for 10-15 minutes before rinsing off.

Does Mandelic Acid Cause Purging?

Mandelic acid can cause initial purging, especially for those with acne-prone skin.

This is a temporary reaction as the acid helps unclog pores and bring impurities to the surface to be healed.

However, if purging persists for more than four weeks, it may be a sign that your skin is not tolerating the product well.

What Not to Use With Mandelic Acid?

Avoid using mandelic acid with other exfoliants, benzoyl peroxide, retinoids, and hydroquinone, as these combinations can lead to skin irritation, over-exfoliation, barrier damage, and discoloration. 

Should You Moisturize After Mandelic Acid?

You should always moisturize after using mandelic acid to prevent dryness and irritation and compromise your skin barrier.

Make sure to finish off your mandelic acid skincare routine with a hydrating moisturizer to create an occlusive barrier on the skin’s surface and help it retain moisture.

Does Mandelic Acid Help Acne Scars?

Mandelic acid can help fade post-inflammatory red and dark acne scars and improve the appearance of pitted acne scarring.